Don’t let surfing rule your life.
Surfing, in the grand scheme of things, is not important. It is not something that should take away from anything else in your life. In fact, if it is done correctly, it should add to everything else in your life.
Your partner wants you to surf less and see them more? Surf less and see them more. Showing up late to work and getting your boss’s leather couch all sandy? Get up earlier, get that surf in, then get to work on time. And brush yourself off, for Christ’s sake.
A lot of surfers have a tendency to pretend surfing is more important to them than it actually is, because that’s part of the surfer stereotype: Surfing’s the source. Change your life, swear to God. Etcetera etcetera. It’s not the source. It might change your life, but probably not in some epiphany-type realization — you might just get healthier and feel a little more relaxed. And that’s not from just surfing. That’s the exercise and the vitamin D.
“It’s the challenge of this land and the reward for the efforts that always brings me back…nothing ever comes easy,” Warrick says with a humble laugh. We’re sitting 40 feet up in the limbs of an ancient rimu tree behind the compound, watching the sunset over the bay. The Awarua River drifts languidly towards its confluence with the sea, and the cicadas’ hum is broken by the melodic call of a tui bird. Heavy, dark clouds gather on the horizon but, for the moment, the elements have relinquished their relentless barrage. It’s a timeless view of a wild, unspoiled land that remains unchanged from when the Maori first came over the mountains in search of their sacred greenstone.
Did you know they have surfers in Canada?
Have you seen these SICK photos by Matador Ambassador Al MacKinnon? Take a look inside Australia’s coolest surf community.
Going on holiday this summer? Check out Costa Rica, as recommended by Evan Timpy, for some truly kick-ass waves.
Matador Ambassador Al Mackinnon’s photography from the beaches of the Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia.